One can drive all day in these hills and yet manage to reach only the adjacent mountain range. Experience of a tourist sits in uncomfortably with the hill resident’s in the little hatchback we drive in. He carries his sick wife to the nearest hospital in plains. The tourist nurses his camera, leaping at every turn to record his fascination. Like this time when the car reverses uphill to make way for a climbing truck, meeting it nose to nose on a mudslide. The resident sat resigned. The tourist sat fascinated.